|
The screwed down Dist cap sounds like (early) Volvo/Chrysler Ignition, which I believe means (early) LH 2.0 Fuel Injection (details like that up front would help with tips). Being a transition year for the FI, the service info is spotty and sometimes conflicting. But here goes...
Here are some Ignition and Fuel possibilities:
A - Ignition:
1) Clean off both Coil Primary connections (#1 and #15) by taking the connectors on and off 2 or 3 times.
2) Run a jumper* wire from Battery Positive (+12v) to Coil #15 before you try to start it the next time. If it starts, you can leave the wire in place, but take it off when you shut the engine off.
* This coil wiring is known to have troubles, which can worsen with cold temps, The jumper wire BYPASSes the suspected problem spots. If it helps with starting, post back for a more permanent fix.
Also post back with what you have in the way of test equipment (ie meter, test light, etc) and hands-on experience. This info will help to tailor any tips to your capabilities.
B - Fuel
1) Double-check the 25 Amp blade fuse near the coil, and fuse 12 or 13 in the fuse box.
I don't know if LH 2.0 has a Cold Start Injector. I don't think so, because there should be a Blue-Green wire from the starter wiring someplace (manual says "Remote Starter Pick-up Point") that goes to the ECU pin 4. I'm assuming it's purpose is to "ask" the ECU for extra fuel when cranking.
2) So I'd take the ECU connector off and use a meter or test light to check for +12Volts at pin 4 while someone else tries the starter briefly.
3) The ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor signal to the ECU may be wrong or missing. Without it, the ECU won't provide the extra fuel needed for cold starts. Let us know if you have a voltmeter to test it with.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
|
