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Good on the Test Light, Cold Start Injector, and K-jet (the injectors are in the head, right? Not in the Intake Manifold? And there's a round rubber boot under the throttle body?) But I'd like to be clear on the Ignition. If it's Volvo/Chrysler, there will be three (3) wires coming from the distributor body—if only two (2) wires, it's the Bosch Pointless.
Your problem can be either fuel or ignition. I can't say much on ignition till we're sure what kind. But assuming it is the V/C (as per your dist cap description), then what I suggested yesterday (Item A - 1) and 2) would still apply.
As for Fuel problems, air leaks as Nickvg mentioned are always troublesome—especially in the cold, when lean mixture problems show up more. For now, here's how to check your CSI.
1) Get Fuel pressure up by jumping +12 volts from Fuse 6 or 7 (left/input side) TO Fuse 5 left side. Both pumps should run. Three or four seconds is enough.
2) Kill the ignition (for SAFETY) by pulling the ground wire off the coil #1 primary terminal. Then, if you have the right allen wrench (5mm I think), remove the CSI and stick it in a small clear jar. You should be able to see it spray when you crank the engine over.
TIP: You can crank it from under the hood (Ign. OFF) by Jumpering +12v from the battery to a single, unconnected wire terminal in the firewall area near the Fuel Filter. It's probably tucked behind a wire bundle. Should be a Blue Wire with a standard flat terminal inside a black plastic cover.
If it doesn't spray, unplug the wires and check for cranking voltage at the terminal that is fed by the Blue-Yellow wire(s). Peel the covering away as needed to see the wire colors.
If there's no Cranking Voltage, the B-Y wire is "open" between the CSI and Starter Terminal 50 (the +12 V should come from Ign. Sw. –> to –> Starter 50 –> to –> CSI.
If there IS voltage but no fuel, the CSI ground path (White Wire) needs to be checked. It goes to the Thermo-Time Switch (TTS), then through normally-closed (N/C) TTS contacts to ground. The possibilities are:
> Open in the White wire
> TTS Plug off or loose
> Bad TTS contacts
Be aware that the TTS N/C contacts WILL BE OPEN if you've been cranking repeatedly for several seconds, because it's a heated Bi-Metallic switch inside. Every time the CSI gets voltage, so does the TTS heater. This stops the CSI fuel — by OPENING the TTS ground path contacts after 10-12 seconds of cranking — to prevent flooding.
Let us know your progress,
Bruce
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current), '80 GLE V8 (Sold), '85 244 ti, '83 245t
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000Km), 73 142 (98Km)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78, Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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