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I agree too. But I suggest checking the voltage drop across the new switch after you install it and someone else is stomping on the brake pedal. If there's much at all, there is an impairment to brake light output. Verify this effect by holding a jumper across the switch terminals to bypass the switch internals, and have a third person see if the brake lights get any brighter when you do this. Then check volts at brake light fixture when lit vs. battery voltage under same conditions, for total voltage drop in the wires and connections. Acummulated resistance in all the wiring connectors serving the brake lights can take quite a toll, light brightness dropping exponentially as resistance in the source circuit increases.
The master cyl switch contacts apparently get submerged in brake fluid sooner or later. If it's silicone brake fluid, not enough current will pass to light the brake lights, but it will operate a little test light and a relay. Long story; relay addition was the cure for the silicone fluid, which in turn was the earlier cure for rust reappearing in the master cylinder, in a German-made '78 VW. Suggest add a relay and have your new hydraulic switch operate it directly. Add brakelight brightness check to your routine maint checklist. Next, consult Ron Kwas's 'Swedish Embassy' site for discussion of using anti-corrosive paste, to help keep cleaned-up wiring connections clean and fully effective. http://www.intelab.com/swem/anti_corrosive_paste.htm
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