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overheating at idle 120-130 1966

In response to a previous post, I seriously doubt if you have a fan clutch.
You might have a loose belt though.

A couple things come to mind. One is that your water circulation may be
intermittent, and it acts like that when your coolant level is low. Be sure
that it is indeed full, and run it with the heater turned on while filling
to make sure that there are no bubbles. Look in the radiator when it is
running after the thermostat is open to make sure you have good coolant flow.
Also see if it is relatively clean.

Another thing that will contribute to overheating is retarded ignition timing.
Advance it until it pings under load and then back it off till the pinging
is only noted under the heaviest loads. This will reduce overheating and
greatly extend the life of your exhaust system as well as valves and will
also give you better performance.

I would NOT change the water pump unless there are reasons to think it is bad
or you are getting ready for a long trip or something. In my experience once
you get it on and it doesn't leak, it is better to leave it alone!

One other thing to check will be your thermostat. Be sure and get a new
sealing ring before you take it out. The old ones are rarely re-usable.
Your thermostat may be sticking both open and shut.

I'm running a couple pieces of cardboard in front of my radiator until it
warms up (more than 50°F). It doesn't completely cover the radiator but most
of it. This stabilizes the water temp nearer the thermostat set point rather
than filling the engine with very cold coolant suddenly when the thermostat
opens. The coolant has a much higher heat capacity than the metal engine block
so it takes a while to warm the block and head again after they get chilled.

Hope these ideas help,
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US






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