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If the pedal "firm point" rises and hardens with 3 or 4 pumps, there is air in the either or both systems.
You can test the MC if you have two short 10mm x 1.0mm bolts and sealing washers.
1) Block the pedal about 1.5" depressed.
2) Replace the lines with the two bolts, sealing the MC ports.
3) Remove the pedal block and press on the pedal.
If the pedal sinks, the MC seals are bad. If the pedal is hard, the MC is OK.
As for the bleeding, I don't know what sequence you used, but offer the following:
"The 240 brakes have two separate hydraulic systems. The recommended bleeding sequence does each system separately, as follows (either A or B can be done first):
System A:
1) Left rear
2) Left front - Upper piston chamber (single bleeder, top)
3) Right front - Upper piston chamber (single bleeder, top)
System B:
4) Right rear
5) Right front - Lower piston chamber ( inner and outer bleeders, either first)
6) Left front - Lower piston chamber ( inner and outer bleeders, either first)
The upper piston chambers in #2 and #3 are basically an inverted "U", with the bleeder at the highest point. The lower piston chambers (#5 and #6) are like an upright "U", with bleeders at the two high points."
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), '80 GLE V8 (Sold), '86 240dl, '85 244 ti, '83 245t '76 244 (R.I.P at 255k), 73 142 (98K), '71 144 (ex circle track car) Used '70 144 from '78 to '92, New 144 from '67 to '78, Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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