Community Forums:

Look carefully at each caliper and be sure the bleeder screws are located at the TOP of each cylinder. I've seen L&R calipers swapped or wrong side replacements making it almost impossible to properly bleed with the caliper bolted in place. However, it can be done by unbolting and holding the caliper upside-down to bleed, and then bolt it back. Unless you're the original owner and the only servicer - you can't be sure of every past repair.

That said; using the correct sequence, the best method of bleeding is a low pressure adapter (the kind many Volvo guys use) or a gravity drip (the simple but slow one-man method I've used for years). Manual pumping of the pedal simply aerates the fluid meaning you have to get "foam" to move down the line toward the bleeder. In some vehicles, there are pockets in the system that could allow liquid to drip past the foam while the foam stayed trapped. Ask any mechanic that tried bleeding early rear disc eqipped GM cars 16 times and STILL never got the pedal back to factory height. Leave the brake pedal untouched for 1/2 hour and try one of these methods.