|
No need to bleed on a pad change.
I see no reason to replace the good caliper.
Check all 3 bleeders on the new one (I've had one break off, right out of the box.)
Contrary to some advice below, there is a definite bleed sequence for the 240 dual circuit brake system. It's in Bentley and Haynes, or I can post later.
240 Front calipers are Girling (not Ate, like the rears).
You'll want a good "flare wrench"(11mm or 7/16") for brake line fittings. Don't twist the lines - use plenty of penetrating oil and be patient. Put a little wrench pressure on the fitting, then tap the wrench with a small hammer (moderate, sharp force is better than slow, increasing force.)
Before you open the lines, prepare to Stop Brake Fluid Loss from the Master Cylinder by blocking the brake pedal depressed. It only takes an inch or so on the 240s. Disconnect the battery to keep brake lights off.
Check your rebuilt caliper for mis-matched halves (it happens!) — In the Girling 4-piston calipers, the two Upper piston chambers form an inverted U, with one common bleeder at the high point. The two Lower piston chambers form an upright U, with a bleeder at each of the two high points.
Rebuilders sometimes get the INNER and OUTER caliper halves calipers mismatched. (i.e. The Left Side INNER half, where the lines attach, will have a Right Side OUTER half paired to it — but that OUTER half will be upside down.
During the original assembly, Girling distinctly marks the bottom of each caliper half with a punch mark next to the joint. Thus, a punch mark on the TOP of an OUTER caliper half means a mismatch — and that caliper will have an unbleedable lower-outer fluid passage.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
|
