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I did the job with the struts in place for the same reason...I didn't want to bleed the brakes. Two feet is plenty high. Remove the front stabilizer bar completely. Separate the tie rod ends from the hubs with a tie rod/pitman arm puller so the rubber boots or threads aren't damaged. Mark the alignment position on top of the towers. Loosen but don't remove the top stut nut with an impact wrench. Compress the spring. Remove the nuts holding the top strut bearing pivot. Push down on strut with your hands and the "A" frame with your foot until the top of the strut can be swung out from under the fender. Finish removing the strut nut with the impact wrench. Remove the top pivot and spring. Use a pipe wrench and channel locks to remove the spanner nut. Pull out the old cartridge and install the new. Be sure the spacer at the bottom stays in place. If you're not replacing the top pivots, pop out the bearing shield with an awl and grease the steel balls and re-insert the shield. Put the spring back on (still compressed) and the top pivot. Tighten the top strut nut with an impact wrench. Swing the strut assembly back under the fender and up into the tower. Align the alignment marks made prior to disassembly and tighten the top pivot nuts. Remove the spring compressor and install the tie rod end, brake line clip and stabilizer bar. As you remove the spring compressor, be sure the ends of the springs (the ends of the heavy spring wire) stay in the seats, both top and bottom. At least on an 83, the brake line clip must be unbolted from the inner fender to have enough slack so I'm not sure what's up with that on yours. I'm sure I missed a few important points so stay on your toes and don't consider this "cook book" instructions. jp
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