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This may help you have fun too. I had loud squeeling from the heater blower bearings and had lost blower speeds 1 and 2, so decided to attack it using Don's method (previous posts). More than once in the process you think "mission impossible," but Don's inspiration gets you through. New resistor and motor from FCPGroton run great, waiting for the RTV to dry to see what efficiency is lost on the driver side. Some wrinkles I noted are: (1) I didn't cut the driver side cutout exactly right, had to cut a 2nd piece - would have helped NOT to judge it by the curved left-hand edge, but rather to realize that the little dimple on the surface marked the centerline of the motor shaft; (2) My OEM motor (1985 model car) had a large sheet metal D-flange for mounting, not 3 legs, so had to remove the entire Venturi (replacement motor is same shape); (3)Instead of trying to find the ground wire connection under the vacuum bottle, I just left the wire and ran a new one to another ground point outside the casing; (4) The replacement resistor harness has a socket for the switch, but it lacks any inside receptacle for the hot wire input and also the A/C microswitch input. Not sure where I could buy these metal insert parts, so I snipped off the leads on old and new sockets, so I could splice the 4 wires to the resistor, and have the 2 inputs already hooked up by re-using the old socket. Also, I used leaders as Don says, but after pulling the old, fried resistor out, I spliced in additional color coded wire from new unit, re-pulled the new resistor in, and was left with extra length leading to the socket that made final soldering easier in the restricted console space. Results of 3 days' work are great. Did I mention that if you are lucky enough to wear trifocal glasses, you have an edge working down there in the footwells? You have 3 images to choose from. That makes picking those clips out a breeze.
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