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A common mis-conception with "multi-weight" oil is that they act like 20W cold and 50W when hot. Not exactly. Their cold-flow properties are like 20w and their ability to support loads in shear when heated are like 50w... saying the same thing a different way: 50W that flows like 20W.
The tranny-fix stuff should ought to work so long as it is compatable with the seals, syncro cones and bushes in the manual part of the tranny, after all these are hybrids, basically a 4-speed with an "automatic" 2-speed coupled to it.
Hypoid 80 wt?!?!?! wow. I know gear oil is rated differently but that seems pretty thick. I was thinking of using a Redline synthetic racing gearbox oil (90 wt... acts like 30 wt engine oil) that did not have the friction modifiers. This supposedly makes a limited slip (clutch type) "lock-up" better and harder and is compatible with GL 5 specs (OK for all syncros and bushes). Has anyone tried such an item???
Heavy oil is not always better as it has trouble (especially single-grade) actually getting into and through some of the spaces it is supposed to flow into to form it's "dynamic" wedge on which the rotating part rides. On the other hand too light an oil will "flush-out" too easy.
Oil is always a certain way to get people riled on any board!
Mike!
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