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Successful first strut replacement using the Bentley manual procedure, supplemented with the darmstrong “Strut replacement for Novices” post, including threads (http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=769381), 700/900 FAQ, IPD catalog info, and Haynes manual photos. Job included Boge Turbo Gas strut inserts, FCP Groton upper strut bearings, IPD A-arm bushings (and replacing A-arm bent by PO), and turbo sways with IPD poly bushings.
Helpful tools:
•Volvo friend’s brand X 15/16-in. deep offset box end wrench that perfectly fit the strut nut
•2-piece spring compressor
•Harbor Freight Pittman arm puller #36861. Perfect fit for tie-rod end
•8-in extension, U-joint & 3-in deep socket, to reach both spring compressor nuts through the top of the strut tower
•16-in. pry bar
•TWO of the 3/16-in X 3-1/2 X 9-in. strut support hooks described in the FAQ
•6-ft length of rope, to support strut assembly front-to-rear
•NAPA 4500 Martin Senour spray undercoating
•borrowed air-compressor, impact, and ratchet
Pros & Cons:
1) Bentley procedure sequence is generally good. Loosen the strut cartridge retainer nut BEFORE disconnecting the tie-rod end, to resist the wrench force.
2) With 2-piece spring compressors, ensure that at least four coil sections are compressed (see FAQ photo)
3A) Lower the strut assembly several inches (upper bearing assy still in the tower), then attach the spring compressors front and rear. Snake the deep socket, U-joint, & extensions from the engine compartment down through the top of the strut tower to reach the spring compressor nuts.
Much more peace of mind than staring at the top of the strut assembly (outside of the wheel well), while inching down the spring compressor screws
3B) A helper can operate the ratchet/impact while you guide the socket on the spring compressor, and count thread rotations (alternate about ½-in on each side of the spring compressor). Stock 240 springs compressed by about 3-1/2-inches to loosen the spring seats.
4A) Even with springs fully compressed, the assembly would not completely clear the tower or the fender well. Used the pry bar between the strut upper bearing plate and the inside rim of the strut tower (both very sturdy).
4B) The 16-in pry bar was also just long enough to bridge from inside the strut tower (same place as above) to help the assembly clear the fender well.
>>> No loosening of the ball-joint bolt to control arm bolts was needed <<<
Use spray undercoat to touch up inside the strut tower, and after cleaning up the spring seats.
5) Needed TWO of the bent rod hooks around the strut tube to keep the strut assembly from falling outward and stretching the brake lines. Also, used a rope towards the front of the car to keep the strut assembly from leaning toward the rear, and stretching the brake lines.
6) My 1990 had no washer under the strut nut. This was OK since the OEM upper bearing inner race was one piece. The FCP Groton replacement SKF upper bearing inner race had a larger ID and a sleeve with a shoulder pressed into the inner race. Without a washer, the strut nut was wide enough only to contact the sleeve, but not the inner race itself. Drilled out a 1/2-in ID washer to fit (Home Depot, Sunday night!!).
Results: Car drives well; no bounce entering driveways and less body roll in evasive maneuvers. The front end is so quiet…..I can now hear the rear bushings squeak!
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Jim (90 244DL 170K miles)
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