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OK, this is a strictly theoretical, pre-diagnostic query, since it's too dark out to even look behind the tires. I'm just trying to figure it out in my mind. Hmm, good luck.
What I want to do is to improve (i.e. restore) the braking action on my friend's car. She just got the pads replaced and rotors turned on all 4 wheels, but without the desired results.
To me, the brakes seem adequate, but the pedal does feel sluggish and takes a longer push to apply than on my 1980 245. There's definitely some power assist, but hard stops take proportionately more effort than the cushy soft stops lead one to expect.
At any rate, they don't work as well as they used to before the last pair of pads wore out. The mechanic doesn't have any particular recommendation at this point other than to go on replacing stuff -- he mentioned brake booster, master cylinder, "but those can be hard to check."
That said, I have a few questions right off the bat:
1. Is it possible that new rotors would help the brakes perform better, just by being thicker? The calipers are supposed to self adjust, but...
2. I'm inclined to think that as long as the master cylinder isn't leaking & the pedal stays firm (it does), nothing is wrong with it that's going to affect brake performance. True?
3. On the other hand, is it possible that the vacuum booster is providing normal assist on moderate stops but not enough for a hard stop? Can it seem to be working properly when it actually isn't across the full range??
4. What can I look for when visually inspecting the calipers, aside from leaks? Do they have some kind of a maximum lifespan?
5. How inferior are inferior brake pads? Anything bad news enough to be worth replacing even when they're brand new? I do have a new set of front Volvo pads and standard ATE rotors to swap in, in case the current ones turn out not to be OEM. But then again I'm not sure if there's much potential for noticeable improvement there, without resorting to performance upgrades.
Pressure bleeding everything in the proper sequence will be my first step. Yeah, which leads to a final question about brake fluid, and I'll check the archives on this too. The local Autozone only offers a synthetic "DOT 3/DOT 4" fluid. I also have most of a can of ATE fluid from FCP Groton from when I worked on my own brakes last month. Are either of these options acceptable?
Well, more on this project later if you guys are lucky.
Many thanks for any & all input!
Tim
** Extra unrelated question which actually belongs in a separate post **
My 245 has a terminal crack around the upper hose fitting, and I'm planning to replace it with the $199 radiator they're selling at Autozone, just because that way I can do it all tomorrow and keep driving. The other option I'm aware of, though, is the $175+shipping Nissens from FCP Groton. This is a 24 year old car. Is it really worth the wait?
Thanks.
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Tim Canan, Corvallis, OR, 1980 245DL
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