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Thanks everyone for your replies to my previous post about rotor thickness, etc. After reading the responses and looking at the rotors themselves -- which pretty much look fine -- I agree they're not causing this problem.
WHICH IS ...in a nutshell... Low Pedal Height & lackluster brake performance on my friend's car which just came back from an independent mechanic with 4 new pads and 4 turned rotors. Maybe the brake performance isn't really so bad, given that the pads are still breaking in. But the extra pedal travel before anything happens is very noticeable. An inch or more of moving your foot through space, in comparison to my own 245.
Ruling out air in the system (which I haven't totally ruled out yet, since the right rear bleeder screw is clogged -- though I didn't get any air from anywhere else), I'm left with the master cylinder and vacuum booster, neither of which looks that old on this car. Vacuum hose is intact, no fluid leaks apparent, everything pretty clean.
Could also be one or more of the calipers. No apparent leaks on these either, but I got dark fluid from the rears. The fronts look relatively new, and are ATE instead of Girling, which means they're not available from FCP Groton.
- Any place I would be able to find ATE front calipers? Could bad (but not leaky) calipers have anything to do with low pedal height?
- Dumb question: How do you get the pads to slide out (after removing the retaining pins) from the caliper pistons, without removing the whole caliper -- the only way I've done it before. The pistons don't seem to want to give them up. Mainly, I'm just curious what brand they are -- as pointed out, they're still in the break in period. Might as well give them a bit of a chance.
- Master cylinder, brake booster... Worth replacing just to see? Junkyard vs. new & expensive?
All words appreciated.
Thanks, Tim
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Tim Canan, Corvallis, OR, 1980 245DL
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