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1990 Volvo 740 Turbo...
My car died today while driving in 90 F heat (Atlanta, GA) with A/C running. It immediately cranked again and ran for a minute and died. I pulled the battery cables (lots of caked corrosion, lazy me) - cleaned them. Started the car - it ran for several minutes fine - drove it about 5 miles and it died again and would not start. Starter turns over in all cases.
Towed the car home.
Checked Timing Belt - looked fine.
Took voltage reading from positive wire of ignition coil it read 11+ volts with key in start position (all accessories on). Immediately after removing volt meter connections heard an electrical Hissing noise that lasted 3 seconds.
I got in the car and it cranked! But died within 5 seconds. The car NOW will crank and run for a few seconds and then die.
The ignition coil itself its no older than 8 months and it is a Bosch.
What do you guys think ??????????
I read the 700/900 series FAQ and it sounds similar too:
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First thing I did was hook up my timing light and had one of the boys aim it at me while I cranked it over. No indication of currant flow in the plug wire. Now I can dismiss the fuel/fuel injection system (I think). Next I connect my Fluke Meter to ground and the positive lead to the positive side of the coil and switch on the ignition to the run position. No Voltage! I ran back into the house to get a jumper lead - I was going to run it directly from the battery to the coil but when I tested for voltage again it was there. Get in the car and it started right up and died before I could put it in gear. Open the hood and check for voltage at the coil and it's gone. Now, w/o touching the key (I'd left it in the run position), and without "tapping" anything with a hammer or "jiggling" any wires, I test both sides of the coil for voltage again. I test the positive side of the low tension ckt and it's 0 volts w/ respect to ground, test the other low tension lead and it to is 0 volts w/ respect to ground. Test the positive side once more and the voltage is back! Get in, start the car and it runs fine. Anyone know what might be causing this? [Response: Randy Holst] From a similar experience I had with my (now departed) '84 760T, I would suggest that it is the ignition amplifier module, which is mounted on a heat sink on the inner driver's side fender well behind the headlight. At a very inopportune time and location, mine quit working when I closed the hood while the engine was running. The engine immediately quit as though someone had turned off the ignition. The result was no spark, no juice to the coil and no amount of fiddling around would change anything. (Long story about having the car towed, isolating the problem and having a replacement part flown in omitted.) Replacing the ignition control module cured the problem and it never reoccurred. [Editor] Test the ignition coil if this occurs to make sure it did not cause the failure. "
Is the ignition amplifier module the device that has four cylinder shape appendages with wires coming out of them ?
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