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Repacking bearings. 140-160

I must assume you are working on the front bearings as the rear do not require re-packing at any time.

If they sound good and there is not excessive "slop" when the appropriate corner is jacked up, then you will only need to get new seals as the old ones will be destroyed upon removal.

Pull and hang caliper out of way;
loosen hub nut (you may or may not want to do the initial loosen with the tire on and still on the ground depending on how tight the nut is);
undo hub nut and remove spacers/washers then put hub nut back on a couple turns.
If hub didn't nearly fall off in last step, grab the hub and give a series of firm yanks until it comes loose (really shouldn't take much unless a bearing went bad);
remove hub nut and then hub.

Dump outer bearing onto a cloth, set hub on block of wood and pry out old seal.
Fish out inner bearing or dump it onto same cloth.
Clean hub innards with a clean rag and inspect races for any marking whatsoever. Any mark is grounds for replacement (black pits, rough places, uneven burnishing (wowing)).

Clean remainder of bits. Resist temptation to spin bearing when dry or when only full of solvent. Re-pack by forcing grease through bearing by "scraping" a small dab off the palm of one had with the bearing cage. Keep up the scraping motion until the grease pokes out the other side of the bearing between the race and cage. rotate the whole assembly and start over. Done when whole bearing has been packed in this manner. Do both bearings.

Smear a good gob of grease on inner race, insert bearing and replace (new) seal.
Clean the surface on the hub the seal runs on and apply a light coat of oil. Grease the lip of the seal. Grease inner race of outer bearing and set hub on stub axle.
insert outer bearing, washer/spacer and nut.
run nut in most of the way then push (rotate back and forth) and pull (rotate again) to force excess grease out of rollers.
Adjust end-play your favorite way.

Replace caliper.

My, aren't I wordy?

Mike!






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