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OK--My 740 GLE was running great and then just died on me this last Friday night. A little poking around revealed that the hall sensor connector had broken loose. So, I had it towed to the shop and put things back together.
What I did was to remove the pins from the failed connector and install heat-shrink tubing over the exposed metal, preventing the possibility of a short ever happening again. Then I glued the connector back on with JB Weld. After 36 hours of drying time, she was perfect looking.
I re-installed the unit and the car started right up. Ran fine as I set the timing. Then, on a test drive, it dies again about 1.5 miles down the road.
As it would be, I was working on another Volvo that had an obvious fuel pump relay problem. The cold solder was too obvious! So I fixed his relay and used his car to shuttle back to mine to look at the same possibility. Sure enough, I had visible cold joints also--though not as bad. So I resoldered my relay and cleaned the contacts and "BAM" she fires right up.
Only this time I get about 6 miles down the road before it dies again.
The tach jumps on attempting to start so I expect my hall sensor repair is OK.
The fuel pump seems to be squirting ample fuel.
I seem to have good spark to the plugs and have a new cap and rotor.
I have cleaned the "radio interferance" relay contacts (but have not gone into the relay itself).
My question is, do we think that I might have fried a control pack having the hall sensor short out? Which one?
I'm very frustrated with this but the system seems logical and simple enough that I should be able to figure it out. Pehaps I am frustrated with myself.
Nonetheless, I would appreciate any feedback on this tired subject as I think I have covered all the bases thusfar.
Thanks,
Trey
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