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I'm not much on newer Volvos but have been surviving battery problems for
50 years. There are a few common denominators.
1. Compared to most other types of equipment, automotive battery operating
voltages are low. This means that unnecessary resistance at ANY connection
has a big impact. In the starting circuit (the big battery cables and ground
straps) this is especially true. (in fact you could read "will not be tolerated".)
2. The lead alloys used for battery cable terminals and battery posts have
some interesting electrochemical properties in that under the right conditions,
they can form a very thin nonconductive film in a matter of seconds. Once on
my 164, in a very heavy rainstorm, it was cranking fine (but didn't start
immediately. 3 seconds later I turned the key again and it was graveyard dead.
It was pouring rain so I found someone to give me a ride home. An hour (and 2"
of rain) later, I went back to the car and tried again. Still dead. I'd
brought some tools so I raised the hood and disconnected the + battery cable.
The inside of it looked like someone had painted it white! I scraped it shiny,
brushed the battery post, hooked it back up and it started like new.
I know for a fact that this happened in between cranks, no more than 5 seconds.
Now 14.4 volts is a little high but might be OK for a battery that was really
dead, and should charge the battery to where it would start the car (but not
fully charged) in 10 minutes or less, assuming that the current is indeed
getting through the battery. Oxide films, loose or corroded terminals, etc
can prevent this. Also when you check the battery, check on the battery posts,
not the cable terminals. It may be substantially different. Also since lead
is an amphoteric metal (forms compounds characteristic of both metals and
nonmetals) under different conditions compounds may be formed that act as
diodes, so you could use the battery but not charge it, or vice versa.
Having the terminals clean and tight and keeping them dry will help avoid this.
Likewise 12.0 volts is a bit low. Usually when I check a charged battery it
will read about 12.6 and if under no load whatsoever it could read over 13 v.
When your charging system is working you should normally have 13.5-14 volts
measured at the battery posts and the same measured at the cable terminals.
Motor mounts, tranny mounts, suspension bushings, etc are all made out of rubber
or other nonconductive materials, so for both the CAR electrical system and the
ENGINE electrical system to work well together, you gotta have a good ground strap that connects the two. If yours is damaged, dirty or missing, this could
be part of the problem also.
While I am ranting and raving I might mention that the Interstate battery in my
122 wagon has sat for several weeks at a time lately but started right up when
I went to use the car. It was installed in 1998 and had a 60 month guarantee.
In fact once last winter it was buried in snow for a week. I dug my way into
it so that I could open the door, got in and it started in less than 2
revolutions of the engine, even with bad carbs.
I recommend Interstate. I know a little about the folks that make them and
they are good folks. The only Interstate battery that has given me problems
sat dead for several years and was frozen at least a dozen times while dead.
The guarantee expired during that time so I did not pursue the matter.
(It was also a 1998 60-month battery.) One thing about Interstate, they are
sold everywhere and their guarantee is honored on the basis of the installation
shown on the label. One thing I like to do is go to the shipping department
somewhere and get a plastic "shipping documents" envelope that sticks onto a
package sealed shut. Put the warranty papers for the battery in it and stick
it to the side of the battery, sealed shut. The plastic envelope will protect
the papers from chemical attack (as long as you don't poke a hole in it.) That
way, if you need the warranty, it is with the battery.
I'd further recommend that if you know you are going to be gone for a while,
either get someone to drive your car once a week or disconnect the battery.
IPD sells a switch that goes between the battery post and the cable terminal
to do this without actually taking the cable off or using tools. I haven't had
one of these, but knowing IPD, I assume they are good.
Parts and auto supply stores sell a brush gizmo with two wire brushes in it.
One end will clean the battery post and the other end will clean the inside
of the battery cable terminal. These seem to work pretty well. Also they
sell a pair of felt washers, one red and one black, that inhibit corrosion on
the terminals. These are not completely foolproof but they seem to help. Be
sure and put them on the right terminals (red = positive) because the chemistry
is different at the two posts.
In summary, get a new battery and make sure all the connections are clean and
tight. Make sure that your charging system is doing what it is supposed to do
(13.5-14 volts). Be sure that your battery is one that has NATIONAL guarantee
service. When you need help you can't go back where you bought it!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US
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