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Cold Start Problem Update. Now I am suspecting the Idle Control Valve but I need opinions 200 1985

posted by  Antiriad on  Tue Aug 3 13:53 CST 2004
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last visit: Mon Jun 27 09:36 CST 2011
[RELATED]

Guys

Here is an update from the Cold start problem I am experiencing in my 85' 240. As I have stated in the previous posts for the last weeks my car had been experiencing a starting problem in the mornings. When I first crank the car. It starts but the idle is very unstable. It goes up and down and sometimes it dies unless I press the pedal. I can also sometimes hear 1-2 "popings" from the intake when I press the pedal. When I restart the car it starts right up and after 10-15 seconds it drives perfectly.
Now the facts. According to the posts I read on the board and the Bentley manuals cold start problems can occur due to:

1. Vacuum Leak
2. Carbon deposits/dirty throttle body.
3. Faulty MAF
4. Bad Check Valve or FPR
5. Faulty Idle Control Valve*****

Now I will probably have to dismiss the 1-4 for the following reasons. 500 miles ago I had a complete tuneup and I replaced the FPR, MAF, New Plugs and Wires and of course cleaned up the throttle body, rebuilt distributor and new wiring harness. Also 3000 miles ago I had a new Main fuel pump with a new check valve.

Also 2 days ago I found a vacuum leak which was caused after the Smog Canister tube was unplugged but it didn't impove by much after I replaced it. I also was very suspicious of the carbon deposits since I drive the car only 30 miles per week and very short distances. I recently added a bottle of techron to see if I get any improvement.

Now some of my observations in my car's behavior.

1. The car, when first started in the morning it doesn't idle at higher RPMs as it used to during engine warmup. Basically I start the car right up and it idles exactly as it idles when the engine is warm. At first I thought it is due to the external temperature because of the Summer weather.

2. The idle screw doesn't seem to have any significant effect on the idle speed. If I turn the screw all the way down the idle becomes slow but if I turn the idle all the way up the idle doesn't get as "fast" as I remember. I remember that when turned all the way up it almost felt that somebody was pressing the throttle by 10-15%

Could it be that the idle valve is "stuck" in a closed position and it doesn't allow any air or much air to bypass the throttle body, thus the idle relying only in the air from the idle screw bypass?

Could the Idle valve be causing my problem based on the 2 symptoms I refferenced. Any opinions?

Thanks

Michael






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