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See my earlier post below the second thread, those are the connectors I was talking about all along! The suppression relay, however, won't keep your fuel pump from running. Having no spark will keep your fuel pump from running. You have to have spark before you have fuel. I have learned, in the many years that I have done this, that if the problem is kicking your ass, it's more than one problem. You can buy the wires, and you can buy the grey connector. I'll have to get you the part numbers when I go back to the shop tommorow. I generally cut them off of parts cars. They are one of the first things I snag if they still look good.
Undo the battery (oh no, not that again, that's what started this whole mess) so that you don't zap anything, including yourself. Take note of where each wire goes on the relay, through the grey connector. You'll find that you can push the wires up out of the connector a bit. Carefully go around the bare wire with one layer of electrical tape, and push each connector, one at a time, back onto the relay. (More tape and it won't fit back in the connector, guess who found out the hard way? Liquid electrical tape from Lowes is WONDERFUL for this). After doing this, secure the battery terminals, checking everything. Absolutely everything gets power from the battery at some point in time. After you've done all that, hook up the bypass provided by your handy dandy tech (I would have chosen to power the coil, but oh well), and see if you can now hear the fuel pump run. If no, check your new to you fuel pump relay, is it still clicking? If it's not, tug gently on your crank sensor (how does that look, by the way?) and see if you can now get the fuel pumps to run. Keep us posted...
Chris
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