|
hn,
Can't thank you enough for your great explanation and photo's - as a developing shade-tree mechanic this kind of info is hard to come by –the Haynes manual was very brief about this repair.
The problem is my 760 is sitting in my apartment parking lot - has not been running right for months - I'm running out of time - and I'm limited to the tools I can store in the trunk and activities I can do by the hood of the car.
After seeing the process and the potential complication with the pin I may need to pass up on this one - as much as I hate to!
I do very much appreciate your offer and would be glad to take you up on it and pay you for your time - a donation to brickboard is also required as this is really a lifesaver and after these past 6 months figuring out the FI system it's been invaluable.
I've read a lot of your posts - recently the very interesting BMW transmission project, and your responses to some of my previous posts - and would be glad to support your work.
The thing is that I started with the idea of replacing the Hall after thinking it was really one of the last two parts of the FI related components that could be causing my car to run so rich - after briefly reading the Bosch FI book it explains how the ignition pulse computations are based on the info from the Hall. The car starts and idles - timing is right (by timing light) but engine sometimes slightly hesitates during warm-up. The other part I am suspecting is the AMM (which checks out according the voltage checks) but can only verify with a swap given my limited experience. I should to be receiving a used one soon to swap soon.
I'll include a list of my history with this car just incase you are curious. If I decide to go ahead with the Hall Sensor project can I email you about doing the shaft swap?
Many thanks!
History:
One day driving in Virginia the car begins to act as thought it is out of gas –that situation where no matter how much you step on the gas the engine doesn’t go. The engine RPM would sink and the engine would shake and shudder than suddenly catch and rev to 3000 RMP and the I would keep driving. It did this 2-3 times before the engine cut and I rolled to the side of the road. After 15 mins the car would start and run but do the same thing again. I had to tow it home that evening.
Is started doing my research and later I found that the symptoms were that of a car flooding – and that reading from the 02 sensor was showing a rich condition. I did the following work on subsequent weekends with only minor success – the engine now idles and does not shake violently but is still running rich – the oil is tainted with fuel and the exhaust smells gassy. It’s not being driven.
The tests and fixes are as follows:
-Fuses – all good and connectors clean
-Throttle Body was removed and cleaned
-Fuel pressure regulator was replaced
-Fuel relay was checked–operational
-Fuel pumps both working – audible
-Injector Ballasts tested for proper resistance – all in spec
-Air filter clean
-RPM gauge jumps when cranking - assume MAP sensor operational
-Cap and Rotor replaced
-Coil to Distributor Wire Replaced
-Coil swapped with new coil - no fix
-Engine Temp Sensor replaced - twice
-Air Mass Meter checked as per FAQ
-O2 sensor replaced - readings are true - leans when induce air leak or pull injector connection
-Engine wire harness - removed - much corrosion, replaced all bad wiring and --installed
-Injectors cleaned and balanced.
-Engine computer swapped - no fix
-Fuel pressure gauge installed and is 42PSI and 36 PSI when running
-All grounds checked
-Idle Air motor replaced (it needed it)
At the moment I am reading the Bosch Fuel Injection book to understand more about the system.
|
