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The b20b is in the car, currently with my new SUs on it... When you take off the valve cover, you see lots of nasty crap. It has tons of buildup and gunk in there... How do you get rid of that? We have some engine flush that we're going to use in the car when we first get it to start and run for five minutes, and then we're going to drain the oil and put in some cheap stuff with an almost new, good filter for two weeks (or less maybe because the engine is sooooo damn dirty up there), and then either put in some Mobil 1 with a new filter or some more cheap oil with a new filter for a while... And hopefully this engine will be good to go for the dyno and PIR on the 25th...
So, the car doesn't start right now... And what does a starter sound like when it's going out? I think my starter is going out, but Tony doesn't. He just thinks it's the battery, we'll find out tomorrow i guess when the car's been sitting with a trickle charger all day and night. It labors a bit, and on like only one of the cylinders it seems to almost stop spinning and then it'll finish turning it over. It seems like one cylinder has really high compression or something almost. Currently it has the cast iron integrated intake and exhaust manifold on it, with the internal throttle's taken out of the manifold(a good thing...). We bolted up my rebuilt SUs to the motor because one of the other carbs that came on it was frozen basically. I'm not sure if the SUs that we put on it are adjusted correctly and ready to go, but I'm pretty sure they are, I'll find out tomorrow when I call Rhys, or hear back from him in an email. The other thing that could be a problem is the distributor and crap. The cap that we have on it is for a different b20 distributor, and not the one that we have on the 71 b20b in the car. The distributor is off of my 74 motor that was in my car originally, but we broke the distributor cap when we were taking out the motor. Will that cause it not to spark well enough? Or cause the timing to be off greatly? (i don't see how...) Also, we weren't 100% positive we had the plug wires on correctly because I thought you count the cylinders front(near the radiator) to back(near the firewall) but according to the Haynes manual and the original volvo owners manual it says you count them the other way around, rear to front. So, we followed what the manuals said, and that's how it currently is. But I for some reason had the thought in my mind that the wires were hooked up differently before, but now I think that they weren't, we'll double check that tomorrow night with the pictures of my motor online.(I think in the pictures of my engine, it's the same as it says in the manuals, but for some reason i still have doubts, so we'll make sure tomorrow)
Another thing we were thinking of is taking off the integrated manifold and bolting on my weber because that would take the SUs and getting them all setup to go out of the equation, but, we need a new gasket for that first... And where can we get one fast? That way we could figure out the problem if it's an ignition problem or not...
Ideas? There's more stuff that went on, and some more troubles that we went through, but I don't have time to talk, i need to be on my way to work in 6... on my bike...
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing...
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