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Very informative post!
The oil pump did look pretty rough inside, with lots of scratch marks on the gears and on the alloy chamber, but there's no way of telling if it had been that way for a while or it all happened in the last few miles of use after the bearing spun. If it had lower oil pressure than it should have had it's entirely my fault for driving it without a working oil pressure gauge - that stuck pressure relief valve on the oil pump kept blowing them up and after about 3 or 4 I stopped replacing them.
I don't have either an oil cooler or an oil temp gauge, although you've certianly made me think hard about putting one or both in (probably a gauge first, then a cooler if it indicates an issue). My 1800E has an oil temp gauge, but I've never seen it budge from normal, but it is bone stock (130 HP on a good day, probably less after 119K miles) so it probably isn't working the bottom end as hard.
I can certainly lay hands upon a set of B18 rods, from the PV's original B18. I was thinking long and hard about peicing togehter some neato racing style rods and pistons by creatively sourcing a combination that would work, but I don't know enough about the implications of changing the compression height of the piston and changing the rod length to compensate to think that I should try it. It seems like most 92 mm pistons I see for other applications have a much lower compression height than the 1.78 inches I measured on my current pistons (from an old 6-bolt IPD big bore kit) Any idea if taking 11 - 12 mm off the comression height and adding it to the rod length?
But all in all I'm not really looking to build some uber expensive 8K redline racing motor, just a nice warm street engine, so I'll most likely just get a set of 92mm Volvo pistons and use regular rods. And keep the revs down in the future, like 6500 or so.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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