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1 - I have 12 volts to and from the 25 amp blade fuse.
I still suspect low voltage when cranking. Doesn't take much to show statically on a meter or Test Light.
But now I wonder if you are on the right relay????, based on your comment below—
2 - "I have 4 wires connected the coil 2 blue on one terminal, and an orange and yellow wire and a larger white wire on the other terminal? I have voltage at the coil".
>> I can't figure this out (which color on which terminal)? "The" coil? We know there are 2 coils inside the white FI relay cover. And it sounds nothing like the FI relay, which has the following 6 wires:
30 Red from 25 amp fuse. Feeds Main coil + side, and both Main and Fuel relay armatures
86/1 Yel/Blk to Main relay Ground side from ECU 21 . Should see +12v thru coil, then Gnd with Key On
85 Red/Blk from Key On. Feeds +12 to Fuel coil + side (also to ECU pin 18)
86/2 Blue/Green to Fuel relay Ground side from ECU 17. Should see +12v thru coil, till ECU sees ignition is working.
87/1 Orange and Brown from Main relay output (2 wires). Orange to AMM 5 and Brown to ECU pin 9
87/2 Yellow from Fuel relay output to Fuse 4 for pumps, and to a common point for injectors, O2 sensor, IAC valve.
I'll respond below to your other comments, as they apply to the Fuel Injection relay, but we need to talk about terminals and wire colors. You lost me at #2 above.
3 -"I checked with my test light on the 86/1 terminal and it does not have 12 volts with ignition on, or off. That voltage should come through the coil?
>>Yes, until the other side is grounded (at Key On)—AND it should come from the 25 AMP FUSE, into terminal 30. Which I suggested you check yesterday. Do you have a Voltmeter? Under $20 at Radio Shack is good enough. Test Light at the fuse is OK, but measuring where it's used is better.
4 - "With the white cover off I can see the main relay actuate with the ignition switch on, the fuel pump relay does not move at all, the pump does not come on while cranking."
>> White cover sounds right, but what's up in #2 above? And so does the Main relay. But why didn't your Test Light show light when you probed 86/1 (#3 above)? The Light should have been On, until the Key was turned On and the relay was grounded and "actuated". (Maybe a bad ground on the Test Light?)
We know that the Fuel relay should actuate when cranking. Again, low voltage from 25 amp fuse is is a possibility. But we are just guessing if you don't have a voltmeter
5 - "... tried the "Hint" and put a piece of paper to hold the main relay closed, and used a jumper wire on the left side of the fuse block from the 4 to the 6 terminal, I cranked the engine, I could hear the louder pump while cranking the engine, but it didn't start."
>> That has me stopped.<< At least until we figure out what relay you were describing in #2 above, and you have a basic digital VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter).
And ONCE more—how DID you "bypass relay" as mentioned in your 2nd post on Wednesday?
P.S. A little "white space" in your posts would give my lookers a break. Or are paragraphs a thing of the past (like me)?
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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