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I don't know offhand what the min thickness is for the rotor, but the spec is always stamped or cast somewhere on the rotor. You might have to take a wire brush to clear the crud and read it. There is usually not much reason to measure more than one place on a rotor, but in your case I guess it wouldn't hurt.
Set up your base and dial indicator (preloaded and zeroed) pendicular to the rotor, closest to the outside edge but within the pad area. Grab the rotor on opposite sides and check for bearing play. Rotate the rotor and check for runout/warpage (synonyms). If the runout is excessive remove the rotor and check the hub by itself to try and determine whether the rotor or the hub/bearing is the contributing factor. Repeat for both braking surfaces of the rotor and on both sides.
I had a pair of junk R.O.C. rotors that were so poorly cast (the vents did not follow an even centerline) that were within spec when measured cold but they warped badly once they heated up. I promptly returned them and that was the last time I "saved money" on disposable rotors.
Don't forget to check your tire/rims and bushings as well.
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