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carb replacement - extras to do? 120-130

Unless you have a *tiny* exhaust system hanging behind that stock downpipe (my PV came to me with a very restrictive 1 1/4 inch ID system on it) it probably isn't bogging a stock B20 down. With a higher revving cam you might get the motor to pull into the rpm range where a normal sized system would be the bottleneck, but probably not with that C cam.

The SU's can keep up with modifications to the engine very well, up to a point. Some nice free flowing filters help out, although if it is dusty where you live some K&N's might not be a good idea. Some people also swear by velocity stacks too. If you change then engine dramatically, you might need some new, richer needles but those are cheap.

The C cam is a fairly sedate grind, and it keeps most of it's power down in the middle regions of the rpm range. Even keeping everything else stock swapping that cam for something like a stock 'D' grind or an Isky VV71 cam (use new lifters and a new cam gear!) will perk the engine up nicely. These moderately performance oriented cams give you better high end power and sacrifice very little low end torque.

While you have the head off you might think about either a regular valve job with some hardened exhaust valve seats (those original seats will last only so long with unleaded fuel) or some modifications to the head. The fuel injected cars had larger intake valves, which is part of the reason they made 15(ish) more HP than the carbed B20's. And you can put even larger valves in. Larger valves aren't much use without port modifications, though. Modifying a head can get expensive very quickly.

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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.






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