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Is the starter motor working -- that is to say is it turning the engine over?
Next are you sure that you aren't getting spark at the sparkplugs? Pull a plug out of the cylinder and connect the plug wire to it. Ground it to metal on the car and have someone turn the engine over to see if there is a spark being sent to the plug. If you've got spark at the plug reassemble and check the FI system to see that its receiving fuel and air. Many times a disconnected air duct to the FI results in a non-start, but also keep in mind that a lack of fuel will also result in a start failure. Becareful when checking for lack of fuel as the potential for fire is great. Make sure you disconnect and ground the main lead from the coil to the distributor before attempting to check for fuel starvation by intercepting the fuel line to see if you're getting fuel to the FI system from the tank. Also if no spark on original test you'll have to trace it back from the plug wire to the coil. Use a VOM to check continuity in the spark plug cables. Check the rotor and cap on the distributor and then check the coil. Many times bad plugs or wires are a cause of non-start as are weak coils. If you have an Autozone nearby they can check your coil and distributor for you. If they check out ok you'll have to continue to fault trace all the way back to the ignition switch. Many times the switch (the item behind the key lock mechanism fails on old 240s causing non-start or difficult start conditions. Also if the car is automatic you should attempt to start in neutral as well as park because you may have a faulty neutral safety switch that is the cause of failure. The factory Volvo shop manuals have excellent fault tracing routines as do most of the privately published books and I suggest you consult them before beginning this adventure. Remember it takes a great deal of time for the DYI mechanic to find the fault, and professionals will most likely get almost immediately.
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