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I don't understand those latest symptoms right now (I'm no expert), but let's go on to test the ICU and distributor. Maybe we can find something.
1 - Remove the round plug at the dist and see if each pin has a thin metal "sleeve" -- supposedly required for good electrical contact.
2 - Turn the Key ON and check for +12v Battery voltage at plug Pin A. When looking at the pins, Pin A is the (upper) middle one (Green wire), B (Yellow wire) is on the left and should read around 5.0v, C (Black wire) is on the right and should read continuity to ground.
3 - With Key ON, Test the ICU switching function by briefly connecting Pins B and C with a small jumper. When the jumper is removed, there should be a spark and the pumps should run for a second. Repeat a few times to confirm.
(If ICU test fails, we make further tests in the next post.)
If the ICU test is good, we test the distributor (Hall Switch).
4 - Reconnect the dist plug, then remove the dist cap and locate circular metal "vane" rotor with the four "windows" that rotates around the Hall switch.
5 - Crank the engine around BY HAND until one of the vane windows lines up in front of (i.e., exposing) the Hall Switch.
6 - With Key ON, simulate the Vane Rotor action with a piece of thin metal, such as a feeler gauge, by moving it rapidly past the exposed Hall Switch. Again, there should be a test spark and the pumps should run briefly.
(If Hall Switch test fails, the HS is probably bad.)
Let us know how these tests go.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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