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Steve, I fought (and solved) this with my '82 245t.
The rubber gasket is somewhat like an "H" cross-section; the lower groove fits over a metal lip (that's the window opening in the body), and the inner groove fits over the glass. Essentially, the gasket stays on the glass when you remove and replace it from the body opening.
I was able to remove the glass by carefully prying the inner edge of the rubber over the metal lip. I had to slowly work my way along the gasket an inch at a time until 3/4 of the gasket was outside the car, and then the window literally FELL OUT of the opening.
Everything was completely reuseable.
Two suggestions:
1) Start at the bottom and work the bottom and two side edges. In this way, the window slides down from the top lip. (If you start at the top, then the window will have to either lift up from the lower lip or pivot outward, neither of which it can do because of the rain gutter. Why do I know this?)
2) Have a helper stand outside and catch the glass when it pops free (and it does pop free) and falls.
After reparing the rust, you must reinstall the window. Allow the paint to thoroughly dry first, or you'll gouge it.
Wrap a sturdy cord completely around the window gasket in the groove that fits the body lip -- that's the groove on the outside of the gasket. Be sure the ends stick out at the top of the window, and orient the ends toward the car interior.
Slop soapy, slippery water into the groove.
Have helper lift the window (with gasket properly in place around the window) so the top outer groove engages the upper body lip. Helper must LIFT the window and PUSH it in toward the car.
You, inside the car, slowly pull one end of the cord. As it pulls out of the groove, it "peels" the edge of the gasket down so it wraps around and over the body lip. As you pull the cord around the window opening, the gasket will "zip" into the opening.
I found it useful to "zip" about half of one side and then about half of the other side. This tends to equalize the forces so the window stays approximately centered.
When you get to the bottom edge, helper must really lift the window and push it in so the gasket lower edge can roll over the lower body lip.
I've done three or four with help and all were completely successful.
BTW --- this also works great for the tailgate glass except you can do it with the t/g open, so you don't need help.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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