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1) "The car now turns on but turns off when switching the key to on."
As I and others have said, this sounds like the coil gets "starting" voltage OK, but then fails to get "running" voltage when you turn the key from Start back to Run.
This is easily tested by jumpering Battery +12v to the Coil #15, so the coil gets direct +12v all the time.
I know you tried that jumper earlier (when it didn't get a spark at all), but have you tried it on this latest condition?
2) "I figured out it must be a fuel problem becouse the injectors arent spraying when pressing the plunger."
Explain please — pressing what plunger? You mean lifting the airflow plate in the Fuel Distributor?
Are the pumps running when you press this plunger?
Did this FD come with the replacement engine?
Do you know how long the replacement engine sat without running?
I wouldn't suspect a pump or pressure problem, because you say that it does start, and fails only when you turn the key back to Run. If the pump was bad or weak, I should think that it wouldn't even start — because at that time, the starter is using so much of the battery voltage.
Maybe the Ignition switch is failing to deliver the proper voltages in the Run position????
You could try another jumper, and force the pumps to run all the time. This jumper would be from Fuse 7 (Left contact) to Fuse 5 (also left contact). Then see if it starts and runs.
3 - "I dont know how to check the fuel pump presure and need somones to tell me how to check it. "
Sorrry, but this requires a guage with special hose and adapter fittings. Some people have ordered it from J.C. Whitney Co. in Chicago, for about $60.00 US. I don't know if that is possible for you or not.
I wish I could be more helpful, but there are so many "unknowns" here (your hasn't run in years, then an unknown engine was installed, etc.) that it's hard to be specific
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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