The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Points are everything. 120-130 1967

I can't get the search function to work properly either (probably user error) but then again I can't seem to properly post pictures either. Come to think of it, there is a certain amount of "post bleed" from other topics or forums on occasion too.

Tune-up proceedure. Not to be snide, but it is pretty much the same for any car.

I have to break out the manual for any vehicle I work on as I have too many to remember the details properly (i.e. valve lash, points gap, etc...).

After returning from work one fine evening I like to:
1) pull out the basin and drain the oil.
2) set valve lash on those cars that have a "hot" setting requirement.
3) remove the oil filter.
4) check brake fluid level, clutch fluid, coolant (if I have a "clear" bottle, otherwise I wait until the engine has cooled significantly) and top-up whatever is low.
5) Once annually I replace cap, rotor, points and condenser. Every other year I replace spark plugs and wires (of course if something is "fishy" I do it sooner).
6) Adjust points gap (or a better method with used points is to check dwell).
7) lube dizzy lobes and advance mechanism (light smear of silicone grease and couple drops of oil under rotor, respectively).
8) remove, inspect, adjust gap and replace plugs.
9) remove and inspect air filters, replace as necessary or clean and oil if K&N.
10) replace fuel filter.
11) fill new oil filter and install.
12) set valve lash for cars with "cold" setting requirement.
13) replace sump plug and fill oil.
14) "break and make" all major electrical connections, clean any that appear corroded, clean fuse ends. I use vaseline or dielectric grease on all connections to help reduce corrosion (just a little!).
15) check hoses and belt(s) for obvious defects and replace.
16) dis-connect throttle interconnect (between carbs) and lube linkage.
17) inspect choke for proper function, lube cables if stiff and adjust linkage if necessary.
18) start car and watch for oil pressure, look for leaks.
19) set idle (if wonky).
20) check ignition timing and set if wonky. Check vacuum advance if so equipped.
21) check and adjust carbs (if necessary).
22) re-connect carb inter-link and replace air filters.
23) re-check mixture (air cleaners will make it run slightly richer than no air cleaners).
24) check and adjust brakes.
25) all the time be aware of loose stuff, corrosion, excessive grease or dirt build-up, or anything generally funky.
26) if I have time I lube all the zerks and "spit" all the brake bleeders (helper lightly presses down on pedal while I crack the bleeder and re-tighten. Why? just to keep them "nimble" for when I really need to get in there (and it wastes some of the "stale-end-of-the-line" fluid)) then rinse off with water.
27) if I have lots of time and the weather is nice I take it down to pressure wash the engine bay and underside.

Just check your manual and gather necessary parts before starting (plugs, oil, filters, cap-rotor-points-condenser-etc..........).

Mike!
--
Mike!






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.