|
To fix the center bearing and three u-joints ran me $250 for the labor and about $60 for parts. I'm finally home. Now before you all get on my case about paying that much for a mechanic, the car broke down 130 mile from home - I HAD NO CHOICE. Towing it home would have been over $400 alone. I was between a rock and a hard place. Now my other problem:
The unstopable check engine light. I got myself into this dilema of not being able to sell this albatross because of the time and effort I put into fixing this POS. I personally replaced nearly every part in the front end suspension, almost all of the rear suspension, hours and hours of work fixing various relays, switches, pumps, motors cables, wiring etc, etc, etc. If I could get $3000 for it I'd do it in a minute. It's a 1990 244DL, sunroof (completely fixed the leak in that too), with just under 150,000 miles. Many upgrades like, swaybars, overload springs, gauges, armrest, leather seats, cd player etc.
I can't find what's causing the check engine light to come on. I even installed an air fuel ratio meter to help trace the problem. I get codes: 232 and 113. I know what they mean. The air ratio meter starts out fine at stoich and then drops completely off to totally lean. I changed the ecu to a 951, and just changed the air intake hose. When I unplug the AMM the idle gets much worse. I can't find any leaks that would cause it to drop completely off, and a meter confirms the air/fuel ratio meter readings. I just changed every part of the exhaust from the cat back including the o2 sensor. WHAT THE HECK IS GIVING ME THIS TROUBLE?!?!? The car idles like crap once the light come on. I unplug the battery to reset the ecu and it runs fine for between 50 and 100 miles, then the light comes on again. Every time I drive the crap mobile I am afraid I'm going to break down. Anyone want it?
|
