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Over many years of driving older cars I've had my share of damn-it's go on under the hood and here's a couple that might help lead you to look for the solution to your problem child.
1. I would do another check over all the vacuum lines for cracks. After 22 years under the hood it's time to start replacing them. Think of it like this, to replace them all it may cost ~10 bucks. How much gas money are you wasting and power that's lost from vacuum leaks probably more than $10 a month already. Now let's say you that you need to get out of the way of that LARGE truck or speeding vehicle and mash that gas pedal only to find yourself in the hospital because a stall caused you an immediate crash, now $10 bucks doesn't seem to expensive does it? Start by replacing the cheaper items first then you've isolated the problem to a finite set of suspect areas.
2. Air getting in through a deteriorated gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle assembly. What happens is you would may be able to hear an abnormal sucking sound when you throttle up coming from that area. You may even be able to feel a sucking sensation around the assembly if you have a air leak.
3. Sounds crazy but a combination bad motor mount and crack in the air intake hose from the air filter could make life miserable, take all the air hoses off and examine them closely between their ribbing for cracks. While you've got them off shoot some intake cleaner into that butterfly assembly and make sure it's operating correctly. All kinds of crap is due to come out of the intake but make sure to secure the little red spray tube very well to the nozzle before spraying so that it doesn't shoot off and get lodged deep in the manifold. If you don't secure it and it breaks loose you're officially screwed and will have to fish it out with a long claw grabber if you can even see it. My advise, have someone else hold the throttle linkage open so that you can aim, spray, and HOLD that red spray tube. I have a 92 VW GTI with a sideways mounted engine and as the front engine mount deteriorate the engine progressively rocked back towards the firewall which in turn was the CAUSE that developed a series of cracks in the air intake that jolted that engine and drivetrain but only under heavy load. What would happen is that if you came off a stop with very little gas then progressively came up to speed it was ok. But if you were in a situation where you needed to juice it hard it would start to accel then immediately choke, then accel, then die. What was occurring was that it would get a constant stream of air followed by a surge of air through the cracks, try to compensate and then go through the cycle until you got off the gas in fear of leaving the gearbox ten feet behind the car from the jolting.
4. You might want to check the fuel relay located either behind the center console near the ashtray or like the later models about in the passenger foot well about 3 inches about the carpet on the firewall. Take it to an auto parts store where they can usually test it. It may be gray or off white. Look for scorching on the plastic near the contacts, you'll have to open it to see these but don't break the closure tabs if you wish to use it again. $38 online
http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/parts/autopartsauthority/wizard.jsp?year=1988&make=VO&model=240--004&category=P&&part=Fuel+Pump+Relay
5. Do some research in the fuel pressure regulator as far as testing it's functionality. I replaced mine after a lesson in no-starting and it's been purring ever since. $50 to replace online:
http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/parts/autopartsauthority/wizard.jsp?year=1988&make=VO&model=240--004&category=C&&part=Fuel+Pressure+Regulator
You might be able to find the parts cheaper but I just wanted to drop you an idea of some of the prices.
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