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Dear Philip,
May this find you well. I do not understand, how one can work on these cables, without removing the seat, especially when the seat is all the way forward.
Further, if my memory serves me correctly, on the end of the cable, that goes into the drive motor, there is a flared metal housing. This is clamped against the motor, by the bracket, when the screws are tightened. Even if one trimmed the end of the flared housing, a shim will have to go between the bracket and the flared housing, to push the housing closer to the motor. If no shim is inserted, the end of the cable will be loose, as the bracket would be hard to bend (to move its edge closer to the motor cluster). Moving the flared cable housing closer to the motor, will not achieve anything, as the end of the cable closest to the drive gear, is held in place by another fixed-position clamp.
Thus, while I, too, have read posts about trimming the end of the cable sheath, it is not clear to me, how this will do anything other, than to make a bad situation worse. I have found, though, that reversing the cable - putting the end that went into the motor, into the drive gear - was useful.
The basic problem, with the front-to-back drive cable, is that it is 1/8" too short. The only cure for that is a longer cable. Absent that, using the less-worn end can help. If that doesn't a new cable seems to be needful. Shortening the housing can only work, if there's a way to snug the housings at both ends, to keep them firmly against the motor and drive gear, respectively. I don't recall seeing a set screw or clamp, that can be adjusted, to keep the end of the cable housing snugged against the motor or drive gear housing.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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