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The part number is correct for your car. Sorry about the dvm - dmm, or digital multimeter, is correct because the instrument should provide a dedicated frequency selection. 2k is Hertz (Hz), not ohms.
There however are at least two options if you haven't got an instrument capable of frequency metering:
1) Use an ohmmeter instead, set at a range between 10 and 20k ohm's. Start by measuring directly across the (disconnected) vss. Note this figure, reconnect the wire. Now get behind the instrument cluster, unplug the signal connector and measure across the two wires. This reading should be close to what you got at the vss. If you get an infinite or very low (close to zero ohm) reading, wiring between sensor and instrument is faulty.
2) Use a voltmeter, set at AC and at least 50 volts. Connect the voltmeter across the signal wires behind the instrument cluster and test drive the car. A working speed sensor will produce an AC voltage increasing with vehicle speed. This isn't a particulary accurate method but the voltmeter should read at least a few volts even in low speeds and close to zero volts when parked. Other instrument cluster connectors should be left connected while test driving this way.
Watch out when working at the instrument cluster - other connectors are easily dislocated/unplugged. Check everything carefully before reassembling. Disconnecting one battery cable while working will prevent accidental shorts and therefore method 1 is preferrable if you're not used to this kind of fault tracing - it doesn't require you to test drive the car with things powered up.
Martin
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'65 121, '73 165
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