The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

'86-245 gauges

Wow. Quite a list.

My '86 245 had a wild temp gauge till I did the temperature compensator board bypass procedure (details at end of this post). Definitely do that first. It comes up on this board regularly. I'd guess that 98 % of the time, this is the cure for temp gauge errors of almost any kind (too low, too high, or needle position changes not related to engine temperature).

Fuel gauge problems
Lucky you, yours works "most of the time". In any case, don't follow the advice of people who tell you to hit the dashboard above the gauge. Possibly the previous owner did that, causing all the other troubles with your cluster. When not working properly, the cure is usually either to replace the gauge, or the level sender in fuel tank. Fortunately, that PITA job is a bit easier in a wagon than in the sedan.

I'd look for a bad ground somewhere also. This could be causing tach to fail when lights are on, as cluster illumination may be grounding through tach or elsewhere, fouling things up. The Haynes manual has a pretty decent schematic of the cluster. I haven't seen the Bentley, it may have even better.

You also could get a replacement cluster from a junker. Sorry, I can't tell you which years match. If you do, count on doing the temp compensator bypass on the "new" cluster anyway. Before you put it in - save yourself some trouble!

For the temp compensator bypass, go to the ipd site, find their bypass kit under "Cooling System". Have a look at the instructions (.pdf file) there, they are quite helpful. I did the bypass with that .pdf and a 2-inch piece of 16 gauge wire. Cut the wire off clean on the ends, no exposed length. Poke a sharp point up each end of the wire, that makes a narrow hollow that you can slip over the two pin connections. That way, no soldering is needed. Reassembled instrument cluster holds the wire in place! When you see where the pins are, you'll be glad to not need soldering. Maybe replace your thermostat afterwards, now that you can read the real temperature!






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.