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Let me preface this with the fact that I have done more of these over the years than I can remember. Important facts:
1) retorque to factory spec of 135 foot pounds
2) do the entire operation with hand tools, do not gun the pinion nut on and off with a 1/2" impact. You can shoot the drive shaft nuts and bolts out though.
3) use the factory tool or equivalent to pull the drive shaft flange from the differential if it does not simply slide out. Some slide out and some require the tool. DO NOT beat it out with a hammer!
4) IMPORTANT, when you install the new seal put a coating of white grease on the spring on the inside of the seal. These have been known to pop off when they get hammered back in and the grease will aide in retaining it.
5) use a brand new nut when you go back together
6) I recommend using the factory counterhold tool for breaking the nut loose and, more importantly, to hold the flange will final torque is acheived.
7) lastly if the seal is a stubborn bitch and won't come out, take a small chisel and punch it in between the extreme outer edge of the seal and where it mates to the housing. This will cause the tin seal to fold over and release it's death grip on the steel diff housing. If you do this for 180 degrees or more around the outer circumference of the seal the darn thing will just about fall out. Whereas I have seen techs absolutely destroy the old seal using the factory tool.
8) refill with 80w/90 weight, clean up as much of the mess that it made as you can, recheck all of your drain and fill plugs, and be done with it.
Mark
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