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Even though this isn't a Hot-Start problem, I still advise people to work their way through the Brickboard Hot Start FAQ since it covers most of the material that would prevent a Cold Start as well.
Of the material mentioned in the FAQ, I would suspect that it's more likely to be one of the following:
1. Main Fuel System Relay (white relay on far left of 2nd row in relay-box under radio).
2. Radio Suppression Relay (supplies fuel to the injectors, Black, underhood)
3. er Stage.
4. Hall Effect Sensor (determines engine RPMs, mounted in distributor).
5. Unlikely chance but worth double checking: Failed AMM (mounted to AirBox, uses a Platinum wire to measure air flow, usually associated with fuel system issues and is easily killed by a failed Air Filter Box thermostat which regulates incoming air temperatures).
The Hall Sensor can be tested easily by performing the following procedure. Turn the key to the "ON" position (2-clicks forward from off, dash warning lights should be on). By hand, turn the engine belts in a forwards direction as if the starter was cranking the car. You should hear the Fuel Pumps come on and off as you slowly turn the engine.
Lastly, once you've found the problem and fixed it, you may have a hard time starting the car (even with proper fuel and spark) if a lot of fuel has been pumped into the engine cylinders. You may need a can of Fogging Oil ($5 at Autozone, Napa, PepBoys, etc) to restore a compression seal to your piston rings. A three second burst of this spray-oil through the spark plug holes will restore a good oil film to the piston rings. Turbo cars are more likely to suffer compression loss from fuel washing down the oil on the rings than non turbo cars, but I've seen it in both cases.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.
'88 Black 780, PRV-6, 148k miles.
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