The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Typical no start problem solved 200

posted by  Morph on  Mon Jun 13 13:51 CST 2005
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Sun Oct 18 04:16 CST 2009
[RELATED]

Turns out the Alternator was undercharging (12.10 volts at B+ and 8.9 volts at D+) and the Diodes were shot along with the brushes. Guess I can't complain as the last time I changed the alternator on this car was 19 years ago and that was caused by a burnt out harness section. Replacement alternator now has the charging voltage up over 14 volts.

I read that low battery voltage can cause the ECU to make the car run rich and thus decrease gas mileage. I'm wondering if this is why the car was running rich ? Has any one heard of this ?

Also I really tightened the alternator and now the belts have about a 1/4" deflection. Can the alternator be pulled too tight ?






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.