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I did that recently, with surprising success, following Phil's excellent instructions. I agree with the prior posting that said use PBlaster now, not later; Also, if you're not saving your ball joints for reuse, rip off all the rubber seals so you can get a better placement with your pickle fork (if you are going that route), and PBlaster the hell out of everything days before you go at it. I didn't have the luxury of the fancier ball-joint removing tools, so went at it with a pickle fork I bought on E-bay for $15. I found that, oddly enough, Swedish steel is somewhat stronger and more resilient than Chinese pot metal; the only way the pickle fork did any good was to mash enough maleable Chinese mystery metal into a tight space that eventually the joint gave way. after removing a couple ball joints my pickle fork looks a lot more like a club than a fork, but it did the job.
Also, if your joints really stick, a propane torch (properly used) is invaluable.
As for the A-arms, be careful beating on the ends of the big bolts to get them out, or you can damage the threads and can't get the nuts back on. But if you do like some people suggest and leave the nut on to bang them out, you might do as I did and damage the nut so it won't go back on. Best thing to do is make sure you get a replacement nut with the nylon locking threads on one end, so you can destroy the old nut rather than the bolt and then just replace the nut.
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