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Ugh. Everyone wants the whole cake.
I have the late '67 "Wagner" dual circuit system (front/rear split with a remote booster for the fronts). Currently, the booster is non-functional and I will be removing the booster bits soon (to be replaced by a single piece of hard-line).
This is a very common late 60's early 70's type split used on probably every single 1970-MY car in existance (except the safety geeks at Volvo and a few others I'll no doubt hear about, now).
The added safety is substantial. Sure, the front brakes do 60-90% of the work and only having rear brakes will likely lead to a rear lock-up situation in a panic stop BUT... part of the swap is to install a "shuttle" switch from any of the myriad cars that used the system so you know when pressure has been lost to one of the circuits and IMMEDIATELY find a safe place to pull over to assess the situation and then limp it off to be repaired. The shuttle switch lights a "brake failure" light on your dash to warn you.
The swap is not difficult. Source a late '67 only MC (dual circuit with proper flange to mount to your current holes), The aforementioned shuttle switch (large block of brass or iron with a switch and four female ports for the hard-lines) and some new hard-lines. If you are clever, any dual circuit MC with the proper approximate stroke length and cylinder bore will work. You will just have to be clever with the mounting flange.
The lengths of the hard-lines will be dictated by where you put the shuttle switch and the exact MC you end up with. If you want boosted brakes, using the later MC with the integral booster works OK but will require some new holes for the mounting flange (and the fun of holding a nut while you start a bolt on either side of the firewall). The remote system can also be used but you will need a donor car (good luck) for the bits. Remote systems were pretty common in the '67-'69 era due to interim "fixes" by various cash-strapped manufacturers.
You already have a proportioning valve under the rear seat if your car has front disc brakes, otherwise you will need to source front discs, calipers and the adaptor braket, as well as the proportioner from some junker.
This conversion WILL NOT have any effect on pedal pressure, stopping distance, or any other aspect of braking other than being able to use the hydraulic brakes in the event of a failure rather than the "parking" brake. Of course, if you install a booster you will have a definite effect on pedal pressure!
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Mike!
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