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The air temp sensor makes very little difference in the way things work. You could unplug it not notice anything amiss.
The calibration of the throttle switch is pretty much a moot point - it doesn't report the position of the throttle to the computer (other than closing a set of switches when completely closed). All it does is send some extra injector fire signals to the computer - the ame thing the switches in the distributor do. As the throttle opens, it feeds in extra fires to richen the mixture some, an electronic accelerator pump. If it isn't working, you can get some lean stumbles when you try to open the throttle quickly. To check it, turn the key on, don't start the car. Then go to the motor, and (in a quiet area) open the throttle by hand. You should hear the injectors firing as a series of little clicks. For them to work, the wires going to it have to be good, a little set of switches has to close (they open as the throttle closes so you don't get extra fires in both directions) and the contacts on the switch have to make contact as they slide over the alternating contacts (for the two injector banks).
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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