The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

My first timing belt/water pump job...plus one followup question 200 1989

posted by  someone claiming to be Cabbie2169 on  Mon Jul 11 05:47 CST 2005 [RELATED]

I used the special crank tool to help w/ loosening the crank bolt. It works great. The Conti-Tech timing belt that I purchased from FCPGroton had white marks (one double-line mark and one single line mark). I replaced the tensioner also. The water pump inlet port (on the cylinder head) was leaking a bit so I replaced it with a Volvo pump. As I was preparing the surfaces for the new pump, I noted some minor steam scarring on the underside of the cylinder head where the pump inlet gasket touches. We'll see if the new rubber gasket holds.

As far as the timing belt goes...it wasn't that hard because I marked the old one up (where the camshaft gear, intermediate gear, and crankshaft gear intersection points on the old belt). Once I had the old belt off, I marked up the new belt such that the double-line mark lined up with the camshaft gear mark on the old belt. The other single-line mark on the timing belt didn't really lineup w/ anything. I re-verified everything by counting the exact number of teeth on each belt and made sure that all of my three marks were perfect.

I WAS planning on doing the seals...but when I took the upper/lower timing belt covers off..those seals were like brand-new. (I have actually forgotten the last time the timing belt/seals were replaced...but wanted to do before daughter leaves for college). There was zero leakage and I couldn't bring myself to remove a seal..especially since this was my first time inside this region of the car...even though I had purchased PVC fittings to drive the new seals onto the shafts. I figured that I'd probably mess up and wind up w/ a leak whereas the current seals were perfect. (They were Elring seals..so I figured they'd already been replaced by my mechanic some time ago.)

Here is one followup question:
1) Because I had removed all three gears to inspect the seals (cam, intermediate, and crank gears), I had to re-torque these gears after I decided to leave the seals alone. With the new belt installed and lined up w/ the marks on the gears, AND with the crank tool in place (to keep the belt from turning), I began re-torquing the intermediate gear and it slipped two teeth on the timing belt twice. (Each time I re-positioned the gear to line it back up w/ the white marks I'd made earlier on the new belt.) How do you tighten this gear without it slipping on the belt teeth?????

I haven't driven it yet....kinda skeered the intermediate gear bolt may come loose...how much torque should be on this bolt?
Thanks,
Cabbie2169






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.