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the coil is in fact the temperature sensing element, works with gas pressure, so never cut it ! In order to determine the lengths in & out the box, i put the box back in place without the sensing element, and used a copper wire to bend in-situ (under the dash) to obtain an image of an acceptable routing. Avoid interferences and sharp bends.
To pass the sensing tube in the boxed, I hammered/dimpled the box rim/flange with a small hammer, to obtain a softened/deepened opening (just below the sheet metal bracket for the control wires). So I could pass the sense tube there, covered with some rubber tape to protect against chafing. If you've got everything dissassembled, it is then a matter of performing a dry-run assembly, with the heater core and ventilation flaps in place, to see how you must bend the coiled part inside the box so that it does not interfere with the flaps opening/closing or the heater core. You can coil it reasonably tight, like 1 inch. Just feel it, and don't exaggerate. In order to fix it definitely in place under the core, I used a miniature rubber covered P-clamp, but I admit that this is probably exaggerated. It looked nice though.
When everything (box and valve) is ready & assembled, hold the box oblique and slide the valve first down into the cabin, followed by the box. Some left/right/fwd/aft maneuvring is usually necessary to get it the way it should. Let the valve hang, put the box in place, and then put the valve in place under the dash. Take care of the tube routing, & connect the piano wire controls.
Workings :
the hot water leaves the cylinder head at the end, goes to the heater valve. The heater valve gets a preset position, as controlled from the dash controls with a steel piano wire. Through the sense tube, it senses the air temperature, as heated by the core. If air is cold, valve remains in preset position, and hot water enters the core. Air heats up, gas pressure rises in the sense tube, and the valve slowly closes, until some kind of steady state temp is reached. The more you preset the valve open (=WARM) on the dash, the more gas pressure is needed to close it, thus higher temp is needed to reach the steady state, i.e. the warmer the air that enters the car. Easy to see that you may never damage the gas sense tube !
The water flows from the valve, through the heater core, and goes then into a return tube that picks up the water at the aft end of the block, and runs under the exhaust collector, forwards to the side inlet of the water pump. The water pump has two inlets : 1 main inlet (underside) that returns water from the radiator, bigger diameter pipe ; and 1 side inlet with the return pipe along the block. The pump outlets are not visible, they are on the face between the pump and the cylinder head and run through 2 cylindrical seals.
Hope this helps,
good luck
john,
'67 pearl white
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