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76 instrument panel shell in 73 145 - few problems (long post) 140-160 1973

Been driving the Yellow Peril for about a week now and am working the minor
stuff out of it but it died Friday from fuel starvation. When I filled up the
fuel filter and damaged an electric fuel pump I put a 3/8" plastic filter
between the tank and the pump. Turned out it got full, and a new filter put
me back on the road again. (I got 2 filters this time because I only drove
the car a week to do that!) While I was working on it I went back into the
panel that I cobbled together using the 1973 innards in the better-looking
1976 instrument panel shell. I had put in a new Odo gear but the Odo STILL
didn't work. Took the speedo down and ran it with my electric drill with a
nail chucked in it (reverse direction) and found the gear was working OK but
the motion was not getting from the Odo shaft to the Odo. I tried to pull the
face but broke the hand in the process so I put the new gear on another speedo
I had. The one I used was marked "1.03" and the one I screwed up was "0.99"
It seems to be working fine, although I have only put an indicated 4 miles on.
Since I am using 195-75/15 tires, will this make the odo more or less accurate?
(BTW it steers VERY easily with all new steering components.)

Also the gas gauge doesn't work. I checked it out and like all of them the
nuts holding it to the panel were not tight. I put a 6 volt lantern battery
across it and it seems to work OK that way. I have 5 volts at the sender and
the sender seems to have reasonable resistance but get the same reading shorted
or disconnected (well below empty). I tightened up the nuts on both the gas
and temp gauge (which seems to be working OK). Previously I had installed an
electronic regulator in accordance with instructions furnished here, and it
seems to be working the temp gauge fine. Anybody got any ideas on this?
Should I pull the sender out of the tank and see what gives?

The oil pressure light was nonfunctional but the amp light was working OK.
I replaced the oil pressure light and it now works OK but the amp light
doesn't........?

Been having some problems with the brake failure switch. Always showed a
brake failure but looking in the hole with the switch out, seems to be OK.
I put in a different switch, same thing. So I'm not sure what gives there.
Any suggestions welcome. The piston does not move when you stand on the
brake, just stays in the center. Maybe 2 bad switches?

Was getting a little clattering both valve noise and also pinking. I set the
ignition advance from 24°BTDC back to about 18° and found one valve with a lot
of lash and that is better now. Didn't get to 100°F today but was purty close.

I sure would like to drive this car over to Joplin to meet the Dutchmen on
the 12th and from there to OKC. Better have plenty fuel filters! Any of
you planning to join them anywhere? I think they pull into New York tomorrow.
Last I heard they were shipping 93 cars over. Now that is a real TOUR!!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!






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