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89, 245, non turbo
160k
Here's how it went so far and I wonder if I have a problem?
Sucked all fluid out of old MC, took off mc and virtually no mess. Bench bled new MC best I could. Used a THEXTON MC BLEEDER, with SAE/fractional 3/8 x 24 threads. So, I used with teflon tape to take up any slack in the I assume Metric 1.00 mm pitch, ATE MC threads (didnt measure the DIA, it felt tight enough with PTFE tape). At any rate, I saw a drip at the connection as I pushed the MC rod in to bleed it. So, I tightened the connection and it stopped leaking. Proceeded to bench bleed. Not much air that I could see either way. Pushed rod in about ten times.
Mounted MC on car. Got Mom to hold brake down a little bit (instructed her NOT to allow pedal to go back - I wonder if she did, though). Removed the MC bleeder tubes and threaded in the vehicle hard metal brake lines. Pumped up pedal, felt tight. Started car to see how brakes were - OMG far worse than before, pedal drops to floor easy.
I have since been reading over the bleeding FAQ and looking at the Haynes Brake Manual. I suspect that my MC was probably not even bad to begin with and that my system was just airbound, because I never did any of the various things mentioned. Last time I bled (using a Snap-on non-diaphram type bleeder - similar to Motive but with a universal cap adapter and quick disconnect coupler), all I did was hook it up, bleed RR first, then LR, then RF, then LF. Pedal was tighter but not what I wanted it to be, and it got noticeably worse rather quickly). So, my friendly Volvo tech said it sounded like a failing MC.
Here is a list of the things I never did (some from the FAQ):
. It is also necessary to flush the lines "before" installing slave cylinders, calipers etc. Many people simply pull the old unit off and then "slap" the replacement unit on which causes any old fluid or contaminants to damage the replacement when the lines are bled. Our experience with clutch slave cylinders went from a return rate of approximately 50% to less than 5% by simply advising installers to follow these simple instructions.
. Haynes says to Pump up brake pedal to push air out of booster before bleeding.
. Remove or press back pads on one rear wheel before starting to bleed.
. If you have lots of air in the lines and master cylinder, tap them as you bleed to loosen adhered air bubbles.
. Brake Bleeding Sequences. [These sequences apply to all cars per the Volvo manual] Bleed the brake lines in this order: Cars without ABS and 1988 or later models with ABS: LR, RR, RF, LF.
. On Volvo models with 3 bleeder screws on the front calipers, open all bleeder screws simultaneously.
. Brake Fluid Flushing Procedures. (From the Volvo Manual] The manual notes that you should de-pressurize the pressure flusher after doing each wheel, then operate the brake pedal several times, before going to the next wheel.
Well, I at least did the following one before driving the car.
. After doing all four wheels, operate the brake pedal several times.
diyer
PS. Going to try finish job today - no brakes, but I didnt bleed after MC change. Several posts are suggesting that it is very possible not to have to bleed the system after repalcing the MC. If that's true, I did something wrong.
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