Rocker assembly - A valve or two among the 8 is usually down at least partway probably all the time. You can just unbolt the rocker shaft bolts though, don't worry too much about bending or skewing anything, just unbolt it. When retightening I tend to do each bolt a little bit in sequence until all are tight. No spring compressors needed for this, just to remove the springs and valves themselves.

One of the hoses on the back of the engine hooks to an elbow pipe fitting in the back of the hed, the other to a pipe reaching around to the water pump on the front. That pipe usually has (at least when it rolled out of the factory) a little metal tab to support it at the rear bolted under the rear-most manifold nut.

The temp sender (assuming it is an original mechanical sender) is very fragile. I'd soak it with PBLaster liberally to minimize the chances that it will stick to the retaining nut and try to twist as it is unscrewed.

The little ball joints on the throttle linkage are stuck together by little metal pins/clips that clip around the shaft. To remove them rotate them out from the shaft, then pull straight down away from the balljoint. Hard to explain, simple once you notice that the little metal clip thing is there.

From my experience, it's usually better to just unbolt the manifolds from the head. Get the bulky stuff off the head before unbolting it from the block. Plus, I've usually found that manifold to downpipe connection to be a b%$(*& to get apart, the manifold to head nuts are usually much more cooperative. Once the manifolds are unbolted (some of the underside nuts are hidden well, but you can usually get to them easily once you know they are there) the carbs can just be set aside, and the exhaust manifold can be let attached to the exhaust system and just pulled aside.

Drain the coolant first, from both the radiator and the block.
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