Colin;

Where do I start...to go along with your incorrect terminology (your IGN SW is NOT "hot wired". "Hot-wiring" is defined as bypassing the IGN SW and supplying power to the ignition sys to allow it to function without the key, George has this absolutely right!), and unclear statement of the symptoms [see below], others have posted correct, partly correct, but also totally incorrect, and missleading info. Finally, some have posted opinions which they're certainly entitled to, but I just have to dissagree with.

Questions to your statement of conditions:

1. "When I turn the key to the auxillary or on position everything works fine; lights come on, windshield wipers work, everything." [I presume you mean the AMP and OIL indicator lights and not the headlights...but you also mention the wipers, so I'm not so sure...

2. "One of the previous owners installed a push button starter under the dash that has always been disconnected." [If the ST SW is disconnected, and has always been, what's the point?...then it might as well be in your cellar...please specifically explain the present conditions, wiring and faulty operation completely, because if the AMP and OIL Indicators come ON when turning the key to the IGN ON position, but starter does not engage when turning the key to the START position, that could mean, that the IGN SW is fine, and that the ST SW WAS wired in, but now has a problem...]

3. "To rule out the possibility that the starter is out I connected the wires again [Which wires were disconnected?...are you saying you wired it again as original, or you wired in the ST SW?] and sure enough the engine turns over, but I'm not getting spark." [if you went back to original wiring, this may indeed suggest an internal IGN SW problem, but if you wired in the ST SW, no surprise there...if connected correctly, the ST SW applies power to the starter (by way of actuating the solenoid), but since the IGN SW still applies power to the IGN sys, the key is still required (and must be in the IGN ON position), in order to get spark. Al has this right, but YOU must clarify how it is hooked up now to get the stated operating conditions!]

4. "To rule out the possibility that the starter is out I connected the wires again [again, exactly how?] and sure enough the engine turns over, but I'm not getting spark." [see above]

Recommendations:

1. Apply IGN power by turning key to the IGN ON position, then activate starter by whatever means handy...turning key to START position, pushing ST BUTTON, or applying BAT power to terminal 50 (GREEN wire) of starter. Check for Spark, and report findings.

Clarifications and Dissagreements:

1. "Those ignition switches are notorious for going bad [I dissagree with that! I have yet to see one "go-bad", so "notorious" is not a term which comes to mind immediately...if fact, hi-quality is what I'd call them!], and also for breaking keys [I wont dissagree there, but that's a known mechanical issue for which a remedy exists.]. That is why a number of owners install a push button start system [I recommend this improvement for this known weakness!]. But, the wiring can also get finicky [I dissagree here again...how "finicky" can hooking up two wires be?... working behind the IGN SW is a pain, OK, but if this taxes your electrical abilities, you might consider buying a Honda and taking up video games].

2. "When the ignition switch is turned to the "on" position it should send power to the points. You could check to see that this is happening by sticking a volt meter on the small wire going to the side of the distributor." [WRONG! Turning IGN ON only applies power only indirectly to the points. It directly applies it to the (high) side of the IGNcoil, and the points make and break the connection to chassis (low) side of the coil. Checking for power at the points connection is possible therefore, BUT, entirely dependent on state of the points...if they're open, IGNpower will be measured, but if closed, IGNpower will NOT be measured, even though it may be applied to the coil. Caution: I don't recommend hooking a Voltmeter to the points line which IGN is ON, then activating the starter and turning the distributor, which will cause the points to cycle...the high voltage created when the points open (IGN hi voltage it's not, but nonetheless several hundred volts), it may send your voltmeter to the happy hunting ground!]

3. "If you aren't getting voltage you could run a jumper to that terminal on the distributer from a known hot source and see if the car will run when cranked with the push button." [VERY WROOOOOOONG, AND VERY BAAAAAAAAD ADVICE! I ADVISE NEVER TO DO THIS!. APPLYING POWER DIRECTLY TO THE POINTS WILL BURN THEM, AND POSSIBLY WHATEVER YOU CONNECTED IT TO, OUT!....HHMMMM, maybe this explains why you have had such a bad experience with IGN Switches!]

4. "The starter will turn if wired directly regardless of the position of the ingnition key." [A correct statement, but this is not the prefered way a ST SW should be wired. The ST SW should be wired to get IGN power from terminal 54 * of the IGN SW, so that the IGN Key is still required to activate the starter.]

5. "If you still have the armored cable between the switch and the coil
and you are not getting any voltage to the terminal on the coil that
is connected to the points, you will have to cut the armored cable to
check in there on the ignition main lead. I'd use a Dremel moto-tool
with a #409 cutoff disk (probably will take several before you're done)
and see what is up inside there." [This is a difficult, last resort action, to be done after an internal failure of the IGN SW has been confirmed...I agree with it ONLY after having verified that no IGN power is measured with key in the IGN ON position, and points OPEN, see above!]

6. "getting juice to the coil." [Please don't call electricty "juice". Thank you!]

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* 122 Wiring Diagram for ref.: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

Guys;

I have meant no insult to anyone in this post, but incorrect information must be pointed out and corrected, because if left alone, helps no one. Please post carefully, and completely...everyone is of course entitled to their opinion, but incorrect or incomplete information, including statement of symptoms and operating conditions, and test and/or repair advice, again, helps no-one. Correct and complete info allows for correct troubleshooting to the real failed component or problem source, and keeps good components from being unnecessarily condemmed.

Cheers