Michael:
Here is a rough guide. I did mine last year.
It is from memory.
Get two of the proper bulbs from a dealer, not a parts store.
The second bulb is a spare, or in case you drop the first one down where it cannot even be seen.

First get a helper with good eyesight and small, nimble hands.
Have a magnet tool available in case you drop a screw down into the area.
Remove ash tray
Pry up the back on the trim panel surrounding the gearshift lever.
Pull it back a bit.
Two screws appear, at the extreme edges.
Remove them.
The bulb is in a holder.
Remove the holder, replace the bulb, and re-insert the holder.
Replace things in the order they came off.
I got the two screws back into position by making a narrow "L" shaped piece of heavy paper, punching the screw into the short end, and used the long end to hold the screw without dropping it while helper got it started. Then tear paper out.
Alternate is tape the screw to the tool with thin tape. when screw is started, pull tool and tape out, then complete tightening.

Or something like that.

S'V' quoting from memory