You'll need:

15/16" socket for the crank bolt. Big breaker bar. I use the starter to break that bolt loose and never had a problem in 10's of these jobs. Other people have other favorite techniques- remember that sucker is on TIGHT and needs to go back on TIGHT! 150+ ft lbs. If you decide to bump it off with the starter, remember the engine cranks clockwise as viewed from the front.

10mm and 12mm sockets for the timing cover. Remove upper cover, remove pulley, remove lower cover after returning engine to TDC.

10mm wrench for the fan/ water pump pulley nuts. If belts are ok, no need to even loosen the alternator- the pulley falls off the studs and loosens belts for you. Same with the AC belt in front: it'll come off when the pulley slides off. Adjusting the AC compressor for belt tension is often a royal PITA.

Timing belt tensioner, usually a 17mm nut. Cam and intermediate sprockets, usually a 14mm bolt. There are some different sizes out there, can't tell you why. If any washers or spacer are present in pulleys, keep the pieces together in order.

Crank pulley, 2 big washers, one on either side of sprocket: different sizes, and observe orientation for which side faces belt. Sprocket has a built in key and it's down when timing mark is up. Watch closely how the pieces come off, and try to keep everything in order and lined up.

I use the crank gear, sprocket, inner washer, and old crank seal to drive in the new seal. This seal, at least the ones I've done, is a bastard. It likes to go crooked and one side goes too deep. Not fun when screwed up. Drawing it together with the crank bolt means it pulls in nice and even.

I put silicone grease on the inner and outer lips of the seals to install them- I always have Syl-glide brake grease around and it works well. You want to avoid folding over a seal lip. Not a real big problem in my experience. Make sure the shafts are clean. Cam and int shaft I can usually push in without much trouble. They can also be carefully driven in with a small hammer- something soft like the old seal can be used to ensure no damage too.

I use grease again on the WP top seal and back tube seal- you want to avoid folding over either of these, or you're doing the job again. Clean clean clean all the WP surfaces!

Good luck, hope all goes well.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-208K ::: Bilsteins, Turbo swaybars, Virgos, Lowered, Group A wing, Tach, 6-Disc, Satellite Radio, Keyless Entry ::: Coming Soon: B-Cam!