Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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PV Engine Swap question 444-544

I didn't write that reply....but I believe it. My car has all the mentioned improvements from front axle (140 is better than 1800es...I've done both)to a better B20 and T5 plus a 1800es rear axle. Even the removed rear seat and cargo area. Not so much on the gauges but pretty much a straight forward car that looks like a PV. All possible and reliable. Last week I drove the PV from Buffalo to Philadelphia on to Washington and back home... 1000 miles and it was great . I have examined the B23FT and as long as you go there...how about a B234FT or become more contemporary with a 20 valve 5 cylinder? A friend is doing the 5 banger into a 140 right now and has flipped it to the north and south configuration with a T5 and a huge turbo. For my car I have chosen to stay with the easier (to me) B20 and Weber DCOE's. I am hoping for around 150hp at the engine with the port work and cam plus higher compression and Webers. Easier includes carburation because I understand it and enjoy it and can fiddle with it but not fuel injection because even though I also understand it don't enjoy it. Rat rods and old scool get carbs. Disc brakes are fine and I have tilton master cylinders (3) to make sure I stop with traffic with 2 circuits. The biggest problem with driving these as daily drivers is the stopping. Cars of today can stop way better that a PV can even with improvements. It is a problem when in an emergency stop of any new car can be done in much less distance than we can in our old cars. The difference can be called a "crash". Putting more power under the hood only makes you have a sense of confidence that you can be on the roads with newer vehicles... but if they stop in 100 feet for a dog and you stop in 120 feet behind them.... you better hope you had those 20 feet of room. Picture is my PV with a 140 front axle.







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New PV Engine Swap question [444-544]
posted by  someone claiming to be bag3lbit3s  on Sat Mar 24 12:18 CST 2007 >


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